Barga figures in the listing of Slow Food’s Slow Cities, as well as having the honor of being named one of the 50 “Most Beautiful Villages of Italy” and in addition has recently been awarded the Orange Flag of the Touring Club Italiano, as a distinquished tourist destination. There are several other things that set Barga apart from other beautiful medieval Tuscan cities.
One thing that you will notice about Barga, besides the lovely tree lined roads of Florentine Villas, is that the Gas Station is operated by women, and in this day and age of increasingly self-service stations, this is a full service station with two friendly dynamic sisters always willing to smile and chat. One day when I reached for the air pump, I was over taken with ” Oh no, let me do that! Are you used to doing this?” she asked. “ Italians would never do this themselves” she laughed, as she filled my tires. A delightful break from the norm.
You might also be likely to pass right by what looks like a dusty old hardware store on the main street, Via Giovanni Pascoli, don’t, because on entering Ditta Clerici you will find, as well as the typical hardware store stock a wonderful selection of tableware, giftware, espresso pots and machines and one of a kind wrought iron decorative accessories. I coveted a beautiful tree of life wrought iron magazine rack for over a year before it was sold. At 140.00 Euro I felt it was much too expensive but I enjoyed looking at it each time I passed. I did find two beautiful miniature rams head motif wall racks in my price range.
Another unique opportunity , is buying a midnight snack at the “Midnight Bakery” a bakery that works through the night to provide for the next day’s bread. This is particularly appealing in the summer when the social life and festivities run into the wee hours in Barga, as attested to by our young American guest who, after partying downtown, rode his bike the 5 mountainous miles back to our house in the dark, often arriving at 3 AM.
The above mentioned festivities take place in the central Piazza Giovanni Pascoli; in front of The Albergo Alpino, a wonderful old boutique hotel full of Tuscan Antiques, with a beautiful restaurant; and up in the old town where throughout the year there are musical events, Art exhibitions and local Sagra, the open air food festivals.
Other than that Barga is a typical Tuscan Hilltown where you’ll find the best sausage at the butcher shop on the piazza. Across the street at the Alimentari, the corner grocer, you’ll be offered a taste of that local Pecorino you inquired about, as well as a complimentary splash of wine to go along with it.
Grifoglia
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