In the area of Lucca, if you would like to express to someone that someplace is really out in the middle of nowhere, you tell them it’s in the Garfagnana, with a backwards wave of your hand over your shoulder.
Set in the beautiful mountainous northwest corner of Tuscany, the medieval city of Barga is situated on a spur overlooking the mid-Serchio River Valley. Although Barga was once known as one of the Jewels of the Garfagnana, never call the “Barghigiani” “Garfagnini.”
Barga, in it’s heyday, was a stronghold of the Medici’s Florence. Against the often fiercely independent republic of Lucca, and the Dukes of Este, or ubiquitous Visconti, it was known as Barga Fiorentina. This is still evident in its culture, language, art and architecture, and the proud Barghigiani continue to think of themselves as a cut above. Barga is nevertheless on the edge of the wilds of the Garfagnana, “land of wolves and outlaws” otherwise known for vast chestnut forests, wild boar, delicious pecorino cheeses and porcini mushrooms.
Barga adds to this a rich cultural life of summer jazz and opera festivals, regular international contemporary art exhibitions, outdoor markets, and a gem like theater founded in 1668, in addition to a city life that is vibrant, diverse and will take any excuse to celebrate. Whether it is the Porcini mushroom season or the chestnut harvest, there is always something going on, to remind you that you are, in fact, in the middle of somewhere. Kerry Bell, Barga, Italy All Rights Reserved International Living Magazine 2003
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