Leaving Lucca and travelling north there are two roads flanking the Serchio River heading into the mountains of Tuscany. To the northwest there are the Apuan Alps, where you find the finest marble in the world, in fact it’s tempting to think you see snow caps, but you don’t, it’s solid marble that has caught your eye. To the northeast there are the Appennine mountains, and as you travel up the Serchio River Valley, as have a multitude of invading armies through the ages, high in the mountains, you see the fortresses of many medieval villages.
As you drive through these quiet back roads you realize these isolated mountain villages are not abandoned, as you might think, they are thriving and lively and home to warm hearty foods and rustic traditions, surprisingly welcoming enclaves of activity.
Mountain farming is still a viable way of life. The cooking always takes advantage of local and natural ingredients. Chestnut products and farro, a whole grain used in soups, and porcini mushrooms are staples in the kitchens. Many households still have woodburning bread/pizza ovens and make their own bread on a weekly basis. There are unique varieties of olives and grapes that thrive in these mountains.
Every city, town, or village, has its specialty festivals, sagra, which are usually held in the open air, often with music and dancing. Everyone is welcome, and in fact celebration is a way of life here and posters for festivities beckon from every corner.
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