The Last Affordable Tuscan Frontier, in and around the Garfagnana:
Travelling in much of Tuscany has become too expensive for words. The introduction of the euro in some cases doubled prices for the unsuspecting tourist, and with the current exchange rate it has become even more difficult to enjoy the culture here on a budget.
The mountainous north-western corner of Tuscany, some of which is known as the Garfagnana, offers a view of Tuscany, equally beautiful, but entirely different from that which you’ve seen in the guide books, and could be the last affordable Tuscan frontier.
There are a number of ways to get close to the culture while travelling here. These are some thoughts about two perennial favourites, eating and shopping, and how to do that without breaking the bank. In addition there are innumerable things to do and places to stay all at reasonable prices.
Destination Dining
In the mountains about an hour north of Lucca there are restaurants well worth the trip. These, often family run establishments, serve delicious, hearty fare, with fresh seasonal ingredients, porcini mushrooms and wild boar are local specialties, at an unbeatable price.
During the week, there is so much ongoing property renovation and reconstruction in these Tuscan hill towns, some restaurants serve what has come to be known as The Workmans’ Lunch catering to the masons, painters and tile layers. Sometimes also known as Menu Turistico, it is a fixed price menu and consists of two courses: Primo: a choice of pasta, risotto or salad; Secondo: the meat or fish and vegetable course. Wine, water and coffee are usually included. Portions are ample, owing to their hardworking clientele, and the price ranges from 8 -10 euros.
Ambient Altitude:
As well as enjoying a hearty meal, you’ll have a feast for the eyes driving through beautiful villages with panoramic views along the route and when you arrive. As remote as they may be, they are not difficult to find. Road signage in these isolated areas can be more reliable than in the more trafficked ones and you can always ask, everyone knows these restaurants.
Local Colour:
Lunch remains the most important meal of the day here and you’ll be dining with local families, and business people, as well as the masons and construction workers who, in a sincere effort to be considerate, may have changed clothes to maintain la bella figura: presentation counts. You can make yourself at home and blend in with the local culture.
Mountaintop Restaurants
At about an hour to an hour and a half north of Lucca, any the following would make a delightful side trip. It’s a good idea to call ahead to make sure they’re open and ask about a menu a prezzo fisso.
At Tereglio: La Crepa, 0583 762 113.
In Crocialetto: above the town of Coreglia Antelminelli, there is the family run restaurant and pizzeria, (pizza is traditionally served in the evening):
Da Nara. Localita Crocialetto, Coreglia Antelminelli 0583 78350.
Just beyond the village of Sommocolonia, above the city of Barga:
Osteria La Mocchia da Lorenzo, 1 Localita La Mocchia, Barga 0583 722 202.
Above the city of Gallicano, past Molazzana, in Eglio Sassi: there is a busy family run restaurant and they often include a delicious appetiser like bruschetta or home cured olives. Bar Pucci Oreste, 42 via Centrale, Eglio Sassi 0583 760 061.
Shopping: the dusty old hardware store
Every city, town and village has what is known as an Agraria, seed and feed store, sometimes combined with a Ferramenta, hardware store. In these multi purpose stores you will find everything from seeds and seedlings to fishing tackle and all kinds of entirely unrelated things in between.
Beyond the obvious practical items, these are my favourite places to scavenge and find one of a kind baskets, or decorative cast or wrought iron objets, like coat hooks or wall racks. I have a set of small wall racks with a 1” rams head motif, the horns exquisitely formed in twisted iron, they are works of art in miniature and cost about 12 euros. Some agraria have dishes, and glassware, most have great kitchen utensils, equipment and gadgets. I found a beautiful hand painted ceramic salad bowl large enough for salad for 12 people. With creative shopping you will also find great small gift items to take home.
Not the Usual Homewares Assortment
These are no nonsense shops. They may be very dusty. There’s certainly no Visual Merchandising going on, but what they lack in display, they make up for in unique selection and great prices. My 5 litre hand painted salad bowl was 7 euros.
There are several of these agrarie/ferramente on the main road between Lucca and Barga, there is a great one on the SS 12 bypass just outside Lucca in Diecimo. You will recognise them as you travel along the main streets for their tradition of setting out a selection of interesting objects on the sidewalk, from anemometers to zinnias.
Other Things To Do
From stately cathedrals high in the hills with endless views, to the simple beauty of numerous wayside chapels there is more than enough for the Art tourist. In addition, there are beautiful walks, serious hikes, and mountain or road biking, through quiet countryside.
Garfagnana Trekking and Club Alpinisti Italiano maintain well marked hiking trails for all levels of expertise.
Bike rental in Barga runs about 10 euros per day or less for multiple days.
Cycloteca Papi, Castelvecchio Pascoli, phone 339 325 9423
La Grotta Del Vento, the wind caves, offer a fascinating geological experience, and Leonardo da Vinci is said to have found samples for his fossils studies here.
|
|
